Angkor What?!

Thai/Cambodia Border

Four and a half hours after you first stepped onto the bouncing bus, you come to the terminal station, Aranya Prathet. Once thought to have brought you directly to the border, you are now faced with an additional Tuk Tuk ride. Through the dusty town, the trustworthy, woman, chauffeur drives you. Finally, you come to a tin roofed building with two unofficial looking lads waiting for your arrival. The other Thai’s onboard the bus are nowhere to be seen. It’s just you, and a German couple, apparently waiting for a Cambodian Visa. The man, dressed in a T-shirt and jeans informs you of the procedure. “You must fill this form out, and since you don’t have passport photos there will be an additional fee”. As you fill out the informal sheet of paper, suspicions rise. You decide to play into their game, and inform them you will come back if you need this particular visa once you get to the border. The man warns against it, and as you crawl back into the Tuk Tuk, he yells back at you “You’ll regret it, and when you do come back I make you pay extra!!”



Scam averted.


Once at the conciliate, you pay the visa fee, receive the official visa in your passport and continue on. (You learn later this was an unnecessary step, as the border does indeed issue every correct visa you need).


The border itself is bustling with activity. Some seem to simply walk through with food stalls, backpacks, and children in hand, paying no attention to any government official, or particular line. Others line up for visa stamps at the ‘immigration’ counter. Once inside the river of border crosees, you are wary of pickpockets. A couple attempts to unzip your pack, but your peripherals are on high alert.

Pick Pocket averted.

The pedestrian traffic is thick, the sun is going down and you no longer have currency or any grasp of language. Incessant taxi drivers nearly pull your pack off in an attempt to win your business. Their friends, who smell like booze, inform you that they are security guards and warn against taking the bus.  Lucky there is strength in numbers, and thank god for meeting another American couple. With a combined effort to negotiate a fair price, you're off on the 2.5 hour ride to Siem Reap ($30)

Expensive cab averted.

 Welcome to Cambodia.

Box

The fan’s drone reverberates off every wall in my box they call a room. The florescent light above me flickers ever so slightly, illuminating every hand print, foot print, and other marking against the walls. The off white wall paint turns a pale toxic green under the single tube light that brightens the room. The one window contains a view of the hallway, and does not supply fresh air or sunlight. This is a typical Thai Guesthouse. I feel fortuned to have hot water, and internet access not to mention an English speaking host. Linens are in fact provided on my single, hard bed. The crisp white sheets accent the virulent wall color. Two pillows allow me to gain comfort in an otherwise institutional room. I’m just glad to have the glow of my computer to complete the picture.

Railey Beach - Just Relax

On the Ferry to Railey

I’ve traded the seven-day-a-week beach party for something a little more relaxed. Railey Beach actually consists of two beaches, and that’s about it. It’s landlocked by enormous, jagged limestone cliffs to the North, and water everywhere else; not quite an island, not quite the mainland either. Long tail boat is the only way in or out, so it attracts a certain type of traveler: someone looking for chilled out beach or rock time.

West beach consists mainly of larger resorts, but has the best white sand beach seen yet. East beach has some smaller businesses, bars, and restaurants, an awful mangrove beach, and that’s about it. There’s a dirt walkway between the two. Similar to Phi Phi, there is no motor traffic here. There aren’t really any roads, or paths either making pedestrian traffic the only mode of transport. Railey literally is two beaches, and the path that connects the two with a few limestone caves around.

The limestone cliffs that enclose the beaches are really unique. Most caves in the world are formed from limestone, and in that, we can assume there are a lot of caves here. It’s true. I’ve walked on whatever small paths I can find to discover untouristed cave systems. Some are large, some are very small. Heaven for me though. Even without a true to the word ‘cave’, the cliffs have formed large stalagmites, and stalactites that just simply hang off the sides. Cave swifts (click to watch), small bats, and geckos are abundant. Railey really is one of the first places I’ve been to where wildlife is still viewable. Gibbons, Macaques, and spider monkeys patrol the place, while squirrels chase each other all day long. Fish are abundant, and are BBQed daily along the beach.

Diamond Cave

From my beach bungalow, I can hear so many interesting noises throughout the day. The morning starts with monkey calls, the ending songs of the cicadas (click to hear), the waves lapping and the occasional long boat. Long boat engines drone out most other noises in the afternoon, but by six the jungle comes alive again with deafening competition for the loudest call between insects and frogs. As I write this blog I hear thunder not that far away. I’m awaiting the afternoon thunder storm in my hammock. The waves are barely heard through the chorus of screaming cicadas, but I do manage to sleep well with the doors and windows open under a mosquito net. Two thumbs up for the tropics.



lol

Interesting rock formation on the way to Railay

Koh Phi Phi



Long Tail to Phi Phi Lay



Kho Phi Phi - a tropical island with beautiful blue water, and stark cliff sides. It was one of the worst hit in the Tsunami disaster, but yet, it still manages to thrive as a tourist destination. The town has slowly started to rebuild itself, but because of the geography, one can begin to realize the immense amount of damage that once happened. The town lies in the smallest part of the island, with two fantastic beaches within 7 minutes walking distance to each other.

Kho Phi Phi town is quaint, with no motor traffic at all. The walking village is free from that nose stinging car pollution Thailand and South East Asia has become so famous for. Cobble stone streets weave through the tin roof shops, rebuilt guest houses, dive shops and countless restaurants and food stalls. White tourists are more plentiful here than locals, which makes for incredibly fun and interesting night life. Numerous bars line the streets, but everyone heads to the beach between the hours of 10pm-5am. Apache bar, and Slinky compete with flashy neon signs, glow in the dark body paint, thumping beats and plywood, beachfront dance floors. Other beachfront properties offer everything but the neon. Hippy bar has the best fire dancers in town, and puts on quite a show. After the show, one is able to relax on the beach on the provided mats with a bucket in hand, or join everyone on the dance floor. The big thing here is buckets. Bars offer highballs in the size and shape of a small bucket. They contain a full can of soda, and a half mickey of booze. Because competition is so stiff, one cannot walk through town after 7pm without getting handed flyer after flyer, advertising 3 for 1 buckets here, or free bucket between 11:00 and 11:10 there. Believe me, all you need is one. And the best part about it? You can take it on the road with you, and enjoy any and every bar with a single bucket for the evening.



Hippy Bar + Beach

Ok, so aside from the nightlife Kho Phi Phi also hosts a few other fun activities. Snorkelling and diving are the biggest hit here, other than alcohol fuelled debauchery, followed closely by rock climbing. Climbers come for the immense limestone cliffs, while others come because it’s the jetting off point for famous Phi Phi Lay, and other notorious dive spots . Phi Phi Lay is a smaller, uninhabited island that has a few major attractions. First, it’s the host of Maya Beach – the beach that was filmed in “The Beach”. It also has the “Viking Cave” where swifts can be found, and their nests can be harvested (as scene in Planet Earth). There are a few different inlets that contain truly turquoise water, live coral and lots tropical fish. Jeff, myself and two English guys shared a longtail boat (1200baht) that took us to 3 separate snorkelling spots, Maya beach, plus a quick stop at Monkey Beach, where you guessed it, you can feed greedy monkeys.

Kho Phi Phi’s style is still that of the backpacker. There’s never a dull moment, and things are still relatively cheap (exept for breakfast). If you like laying on the beach, snorkelling or diving, climbing, or partying, you will enjoy this island.

A Night in Patong, Followed by Ferry to Kho Phi Phi



Too early to sail after a night at Patong Beach




Coming into Ko Phi Phi's Harbor



I made it to Kho Phi Phi today after a wild night in Patong, Phuket. Similar to Bangkok, Patong has a rowdy party scene, that is interesting for the night, but incredibly seedy knowing it happens every night. Thai culture celebrates their gays, and cross dressing men, by completely assimilating them with women. No one can tell who’s who, and it makes for an interesting night. Thumping clubs, crawling streets, strippers, prostitutes, foreigners, and ‘ping pong’ handouts are plentiful. (You’ll have to research that one yourself). Inside some of the more prestigious clubs, one isn’t exposed the over stimulus of these things, but rather just bumping tunes and a mix of Thai and Farangs swaying to the beat. Outside the doors, neon signs, small sois packed with small bars, lady boys, and beer drinking Aussies are the norm.

The ferry from Phuket to Ko Phi Phi is pleasant. Once onboard, you are offered free coffee or tea, and a croissant. The journey takes about 2 hours, although I’m sure a new boat design would drastically cut that by almost half. Limestone jetts out of the blue ocean from time to time, making the crossing more interesting.



I was so tuckered today, I took a short nap on the beach. Even with overcast skies, and a decent base, I managed to tan myself into a combo of a short shorts tan, a t-shirt tan, and a minor face and chest burn. Doh!. Well, off to do some more window shopping…

Foreign Comforts. Patong Beach, Phuket.

Crowded Karon Beach, Phuket